So you want to bring your dog to France? We get it! France isn’t just a hop away from the US, you have to add the skip and the jump. Most likely, you’ll be spending more than a week in Europe, after taking so long to get there! Being expert travel advisors, let me share with you a few tips to travel better with your dog in France, your favorite four-legged friends.
Discussing recently with a friend of mine set in New York, I learned that the recent COVID 19 Pandemic has had an unpredictable consequence on the attraction of people for pets. During the first lock down in March 2020, and in the months that followed, thousands of New Yorkers flooded to animal care centers websites to apply for foster or adoption.
Most of these people found that adopting a pet was the best solution to stave off the loneliness and isolation due to social distancing restrictions and deal with coronavirus stress. As a direct consequence, and because Americans really love pets and do care with their well being, there was a huge increase in the number of pet shops and dog spas in New York during the second half of 2020. My friend told me that she felt like 50% of the shops or places that were pushed to bankruptcy because of the virus were replaced by dog spas…
And another probable consequence is that these new pet owners will turn to pet friendly trips when they have the possibility to travel again, either in the USA or abroad.
So French travel agencies like us, are likely to be soon confronted to an increase in the number of requests for tailor-made trips with pets. A few weeks ago, we were contacted by Alive Pets an American tour operator which has specialized in pet friendly tours. They already propose some tours in Italy and they wanted to create a new one in Southern France. That was very funny and exciting for me to work on such an original request! The result is a great itinerary between Côte d’Azur and Provence, with all the hotels, restaurants and activities carefully selected for their pet friendly aspect. Being expert travel advisors, we ought to know a few things about traveling with your favorite four-legged friends.
Let me share with you a few tips upon traveling in France with pets. I’ve found it on a website named France Ecotours, and, to be honest, I couldn’t say it better!
Travelling from outside the EU, your dog may not have a pet passport. However, within the EU, pets are obliged to hold a pet passport. You will only need to get it once, as it will be valid for a lifetime. The pet passport does not only hold general information about your dog like your dog’s chip number (which is necessary when travelling to France, or anywhere else in the EU), but will also give information on the vaccinations your pet has received.
Please bear in mind that not all dog breeds are allowed to travel into France. American Staffordshire Terrier (“Pittbull“), Mastiff (“Burbull“) and Tosa are not allowed to travel to France. Puppies under the age of 3months are not permitted to travel to France either.
No matter from where you are travelling in the world you will need the rabies and distemper vaccination (usually your dog will already have the distemper vaccination anyway) and have had tapeworm treatment to be able to take your dog to France. Between April and October there is a high risk of ticks in France. Tick spray or tick collars will be needed to help keep ticks off. To see what combinations of collar and spray may be possible please consult your vet for the particular products. Also, a check-up at your vets in your home country after the journey is advisable.
You will have to take into account at least a a 21-day lead time after the rabies vaccination before travelling, as the time of the follow up vaccine can be as long as this. Though follow-up time depends on the vaccine, please talk to your vet to make sure to plan enough time for the vaccinations before the departure.
During the trip you will need to make sure to plan enough time for breaks for your four-legged friend. If you are planning on taking your friend for a little break to a local café or restaurant make sure to ask permission to take him. Usually, it isn’t a problem to take your dog to a restaurant, nevertheless it is polite to ask and they may give your dog a bowl of water as a refreshment. As most French people have dinner at 8pm it is advisable to avoid taking your dog at this time as it may be packed.
Trains are an economic and easy way to travel to and around France. Taking your dog with you on the train isn’t a problem, either. Often, with a small dog which is transported in a dog bag or dog carrier purse, travelling on the train is free of charge. For larger dogs it is about 50% of the price of a human ticket.
Keep in mind that your dog may get motion sickness if he is not used to riding the train. Make sure to take the right medication for your pet and take precautions. If possible, try taking your dog on a train prior to the trip to see if he is scared of going on a train. Some dogs may not enjoy going on the train and will refuse to get on.
Taking your dog’s favorite blanket, collar, lead, food bowl and toys will make the transition to a new environment as easy as possible for your dog (and ultimately also for you). Through familiar smells and items your dog will adapt faster.
All this being said, I would confess that France is probably not as pet friendly as anglo-saxon countries like the USA, Canada, United Kingdom or even the Scandinavian countries. Though I could not find reliable statistics on it, I would say that around 70% of hotels in France accept dogs, and 50% of restaurants, both these statistics being in progression. This proportion is undoubtedly higher in big cities like Paris or Lyon and in touristic areas such as Provence and Côte d’Azur. Also the higher the standard of hotels is (four and five stars, palaces…), the more chances you have that it’s pet friendly, as many high end travelers from the US or Middle East travel with their favorite animal and would not understand that it’s not accepted
Let’s make a quick focus on situation in Paris (extract from Bonjour Paris, a very complete and helpful Insider’s guide):
There are over 300,000 dogs in Paris. With a population inside the old city walls of 2.1 million, the math says that’s one dog for every seven Parisians! Parisians cherish their dogs as much as their time off, so dogs accompany their owners to places the rest of the world reserves for humans only: restaurants, shops, and public transport. Everywhere the Parisian goes, the dog goes too… well, almost.
Why are Paris bistros and businesses more relaxed about allowing entry to dogs? Typically Parisian pups are cooped up for the day in small apartments with no garden access. Therefore owners bring their well-behaved dogs along on their errands to shops, offices, and salons. Ironically, dogs are forbidden from a majority of the city’s parks and green spaces – perhaps part of the reason they are accepted just about everywhere else. Happily, the list of where you can’t take your canine companion is miles shorter than where you can.
As you people-watch in Paris, look out for the pooches too. Dogs that you will see in the capital are French bulldogs or bouledogues like Colette’s Toby Chien, labs, Yorkies, Shelties, King Charles spaniels, scruffy terriers, Jack Russells, pugs, dachshunds and the ever popular poodle.
Most Paris restaurants will allow dogs on their premises. It’s in the best interests of restaurants to accommodate your clean, good natured dog, because if they don’t, the café next door will be willing to seat you both. Non-dog places are always clearly marked, so check signs that say “Chiens Interdits” or politely ask if dogs are allowed – les chiens sont-ils autorisés ici? Or May I bring my dog in? – Puis-je amener mon chien à l’intérieur? Fast food restaurants don’t allow dogs inside. McDo won’t accept your McDog, but you can sit outside. That’s not what Paris is all about. With the thousand of sidewalk cafes, like Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots and Le Select on offer, you can tuck your dogs under your street-side table and you will be fine. Cafés with sidewalk seating almost always allow dogs so you don’t have to ask if you can sit outside
Here’s a short list of dog-friendly eateries – some are quite surprising.
- Le Moulin de la Galette. Dogs are welcome at one of the favorite haunts of Renoir and the Impressionists.
- Every Sunday L’Esprit du 12éme hosts a dog and owner brunch between 12:30pm and 3pm. At this chic destination near Bercy Village, you and your dog can meet other likeminded dog lovers à table. Lunch prices start around 50 euros.
- Angelina Tea room on rue de Rivoli, where your intrepid dog can watch you scale a Mont Blanc.
- Xavier Denamur, owner of Les Cafeine chain of restaurants, (Cafeine, Les Philosophes, Au Petit Fer à Cheval, L’Etoile Manquante, La Chaise au Plafond, and bookshop café La Belle Hortense), states: “We have always accepted dogs in my establishments, both small and large. My collaborators are always very caring with the best friends of our customers by providing a small bowl of water and if necessary on the instruction of the master by recovering leftovers for doggies.”
- The Big Mamma Group – East Mamma, Pink Mamma, Ober Mamma– whimsically state that cute babies and dogs are welcome in all their restaurants.
- Loulou Friendly Diner on Boulevard Saint-Germain accepts friendly dogs in their restaurant.
- Pavillon des Canaux states that they do indeed “welcome our furry little friends with open arms.” They have a café/work space there called the Coffice. Having a dog at your side is meant to increase your productivity.
- Le Grand Vefour is a droolingly beautiful Michelin-starred restaurant on the Palais Royal Gardens that allows dogs.
- Au Chien Qui Fume. A chic brasserie in Les Halles since 1740 has less-than chic, but amusing, paintings of anthropomorphic dogs on every wall.
- Bel’Vil’ Café in the 19th arrondissement has a mascot cat and they say “Oui, Bien sur” to your dog too. Dogs as big as retrievers have nestled under their tables.
- Les Petites Ecuries group of restaurants will accommodate your petite friend.
- La Palette – “of course we accept dogs.” How civilized.
- Herve Duplessis from Mamie Gateau assures: “Yes, absolutely, we accept dogs and give them a bowl of water. My favorite is Hector, a Jack Russell who always tries to lead his master to Mamie Gâteaux, because he had the imprudence to give him one, one day, and he has fond memories of it.”
- And try Le Bouledogue Brasserie. Naturally, “Animaux bienvenus”
About 800 Paris hotels are known to be pet-friendly and range from the palatial to the less pricey. Secure written confirmation from your selected hotel, just in case. If there is an extra charge it will be around €20- 30 per night.
Some over-the-top hotels will go over-the-top for your dog too; for instance, the butlers at the pet-friendly Hôtel de Crillon will welcome your dog and accompany them for walks, but charges of at least €50 will apply.
- The Peninsula Paris welcomes well-behaved pets. According to the hotel, “dogs stay for no extra fee, and receive a bed and a personalized blanket, as well as a special welcome basket full of dog food, water, a toy and a name tag.”
- Le Meurice is another pet-friendly luxury hotel which understands the importance of your pet and goes to great lengths to welcome them properly. Alexandra Chlopek, Press Manager for the hotel, lists the special attention Le Meurice will lavish on your traveling companion. “Your dog will be greeted with a personalized name tag and an embroidered carpet with your dog’s name. A dog cart is available. On request their grooms will walk your dog in the Tuileries.”
- Agathe Canivet at the Four Seasons George V confirms that their property is pet friendly. One pet under seven kilos is allowed for no additional fee. Pets are assigned to their rooms and can go to the lobby, but they are not allowed in the food area. Personalized dog beds, bowls, treats, and bottled water are provided.
- The Mandarin Oriental has a mascot called Archie Le Woof, and when other lucky dogs come to stay, they’re greeted with a letter from Archie, a small doily bearing their name, and a gluten-free bone made by the head pastry chef.
- If you find these too much, you can still search “pets allowed” on most hotel search engines to find a wide variety of pet-friendly hotels. Properties such as Ibis, Novotel, and Libertel accommodate dogs.
Here are some less pricey, yet still chic and trendy, dog friendly destinations : Le Relais du Louvre, Hotel Square Louvois, Villa Beaumarchais, Hotel de Bretonnerie, Hotel des Grandes Ecoles, Sevres Saint Germain, Hotel de Londres Eiffel, Hotel Arioso, Hotel De Seze, Le Robinet d’Or, Le General Hotel, Hotel L’Interlude, Mercure Paris Place d’Italie, Niepce Paris Hotel, Residence Quintinie Square, Hotel Auteuil Tour Eiffel, Le Tsuba Hotel, Kube Hotel, Hotel Crimee, Hotel Scarlett.
Until January 2019 dogs were allowed into only 77 of the 490 green spaces in Paris. Just 16 percent! Considering the high number of dogs per capita and the fact that the majority of Parisian dog owners live in apartments with no outside access, this seemed unfair for a city that’s dog friendly in so many other ways. New rules came into effect January 2019 as part of a wider scheme to make the city’s parks more welcoming. But there are still plenty of restrictions. In a direct quote, Perrine Boiton, Press Officer for the City of Paris, says, “Indeed, the new regulations for parks and gardens allow dogs kept on a leash in gardens without children’s play areas and in certain parks marked as such. In these sites, their presence and their circulation are authorized in the alleys, and prohibited on the lawns and in the flower beds.”
Parisian authorities feel strongly about not picking up after your pup’s poop, and the charge is supposedly €450 if you fail to do so. People seem to complain about the lack of pooping and scooping in Paris, but honestly I have never seen a single deposit. Perhaps this is because of the hard-working street cleaners who open up the floodgates most mornings.
Bakeries and supermarkets in Paris are cracking down on dog policies. Many won’t allow dogs, even on a leash. Legally, because of the proximity to fresh food, dogs aren’t allowed in the open-air markets, grocery stores and boutique food shops. Check for the “no dogs” sign.
Some department stores like FNAC, Monoprix and Darty will allow small dogs to be carried in hand if you politely ask the guard at the entrance. Le BHV facing the Hotel de Ville even has a chic pet annex, “La Niche by BHV”, guarded by large orange pet statues on Rue de la Verrerie. Dogs are allowed in, but they must be kept on a leash or in a bag.
All public transportation in Paris is pet-friendly, but attention must be paid. All dogs can ride the Metro and buses if your dog fits inside a carrier bag or sits on your lap. If your dog is bigger, you will need to pay a child’s fare and keep it on a leash.
All dogs can ride the RER (trains running between Paris and suburbs) if they’re in a carrier basket or bag, or on a leash and muzzled. Bag-sized dogs ride free, leashed dogs require a children’s ticket.
The carrier bag rule applies for SNCF trains outside of Paris, except the dog must also weigh less than 6kg (13.2 lbs). The fare for a little dog is €7. Otherwise your dog has to be on a lead, muzzled, and pay half the price of a regular ticket. For more information, visit the SNCF website.
A similar basket test applies for Air France flights – your dog must weigh less than 8kg (17.5 lbs) to travel in the airplane’s cabin.
Dogs, with the exception of guide dogs, are not allowed on the Eurostar with foot passengers.
Batobus, the hop-on-hop-off service along the Seine, allows dogs onboard with a leash and muzzle. Small dogs may be kept in a bag. The rest of the Seine sightseeing service is hit and miss, so please research ahead of time. Dogs are allowed on some sightseeing tours but not dinner tours, and some not at all. The Seine’s original Bateau Mouche will only allow guide dogs. Rosa Bonheur sur Seine treats dogs royally. You can get a quay-side view of the Seine from this popular barge-restaurant.
Another way to sightsee with your four-legged friend is from double-decker bus. This is a good, open-air alternative to seeing Paris with your dog, as they whip you around to every famous attraction in the city. Companies like Big Bus or L’Open Tour have pet-friendly buses.
It’s up to the individual cab driver if they’ll let you ride with your pet. The last resort is a dog taxi. An agency called Taxi Dog specializes in transporting pets around Paris. Another firm is Taxi-Canine.
Dogs are not allowed in museums. No, not ever. Not even in a dog carrier. Although the Louvre imposes this rule, dogs are welcome in its affiliate restaurant Café Marly. There are exceptions for service dogs. The Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe accommodate service dogs, but strictly ban other dogs.
Dogs are not allowed in the Montparnasse Cemetery. The policy for Père-Lachaise remains the same: “I inform you that entry to the cemetery is prohibited for anyone accompanied by a dog, even on a leash or carried in a bag, except for those requiring officially recognized assistance. Furthermore, the introduction of any other animal is prohibited.”
Basically, any of our tailor-made trips can be tailored and adapt to you and your best four legged best friend if you want to visit France with him!
For sure we can say this is a “niche” (the French translation for kennel) market… but with a high potential in the future! If you enjoy this blog on Tips to travel better with your dog in France, do not hesitate to check our other practical tips.
